For those who have owned a Remington 870 for several years, what maintenance routine has worked best for you?
I’m interested in learning how owners keep their 870s in good condition over the long term. How often do you clean and inspect yours, and are there any parts that you pay particular attention to as the shotgun gets older?
Also, have you noticed any common maintenance issues that newer 870 owners should be aware of?
Would be great to hear from experienced owners about their general maintenance routines.
What Is the Best Way to Maintain a Remington 870 Over Time?
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charliehampton
- New Shotgunner
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2026 4:40 pm
Re: What Is the Best Way to Maintain a Remington 870 Over Time?
What we teach in Armorer courses is that the guns should be treated for rust protection on a regular basis. The 870 doesn't need much lubrication to reduce friction, but make sure you use a good lube that works in cold weather if that is the environment it will be exposed to. We use Slip2000 "EWL" Extreme Weapons Lube, which is a full synthetic, and works very well in cold conditions, I have personally used it at -37F, and it worked great.
When it comes to the barrel and fouling, it will depend upon what type of ammunition is being used. Traditional birdshot, buckshot and slug is smokeless powder, so about any gun solvent will work. For Less Lethal ammunition like sock rounds, OC/CS/CN muzzle blast and ferret rounds, these are generally black powder, so traditional petroleum based solvents don't do a very good job. We use Slip2000 725 Cleaner/Degreaser in our shop and in the Armorer courses, it is water based, works well on smokeless and black powder.
When it comes to heavy fouling inside the barrel, after you get all the burnt gunpowder (carbon) out, what you may see is a heavy build up of what some people believe is pitting. It is actually plastic from the wad being pushed down the barrel by burning gun powder which melts the plastic wad. What we use for plastic fouling is Slip2000 Choke Tube Cleaner, which is formulated for plastic. It works well to get the plastic wad fouling material out, but it also works well on the 40mm less lethal rounds that leave lots of heavy fouling in the 40mm rifling, and we use it on any force on force type training guns where people are shooting Simunitions, UTM, and similar type training rounds.
Other things that are needed to do a proper job is a chamber brush, bore brush, jag for patches (I prefer brass), and Brownells offers a magazine tube brush.
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
When it comes to the barrel and fouling, it will depend upon what type of ammunition is being used. Traditional birdshot, buckshot and slug is smokeless powder, so about any gun solvent will work. For Less Lethal ammunition like sock rounds, OC/CS/CN muzzle blast and ferret rounds, these are generally black powder, so traditional petroleum based solvents don't do a very good job. We use Slip2000 725 Cleaner/Degreaser in our shop and in the Armorer courses, it is water based, works well on smokeless and black powder.
When it comes to heavy fouling inside the barrel, after you get all the burnt gunpowder (carbon) out, what you may see is a heavy build up of what some people believe is pitting. It is actually plastic from the wad being pushed down the barrel by burning gun powder which melts the plastic wad. What we use for plastic fouling is Slip2000 Choke Tube Cleaner, which is formulated for plastic. It works well to get the plastic wad fouling material out, but it also works well on the 40mm less lethal rounds that leave lots of heavy fouling in the 40mm rifling, and we use it on any force on force type training guns where people are shooting Simunitions, UTM, and similar type training rounds.
Other things that are needed to do a proper job is a chamber brush, bore brush, jag for patches (I prefer brass), and Brownells offers a magazine tube brush.
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training