870 Wingmaster fails to eject reliably

[scrappydog1958]

SN: V921xxxM
Manufactured Nov., 82.

This gun functioned flawlessly for years and then began to fail to eject shells of either size, 2"3/4, or 3". I first replaced the extractor with MIM fabricated one from Brownell's (didn't help). I have fully disassembled and cleaned and lubricated the receiver, bolt, trigger assy., slide assy. and shell latches. The gun cycles cleanly with live ammo (either size). However, when hunting, the first round almost always fails to eject and the next round from the magazine tube then jams it into place locking the whole mechanism. I have to pull the spent shell out with a multi-tool.

I have used the gun to shoot sporting clays, and it malfunctions much less frequently but not zero so even though I may be pumping more vigorously, it's not enough to prevent malfunctions.

I believe the ejector spring has worn out and has lost its spring force. I see that there is a Sully replacement system, but my receiver doesn't have holes where the ejector assembly goes. Finding replacement ejector assemblies for this shotgun is really tough. I would love advice and direction on how to overcome this problem.

Thanks,

Thomas

[BKinzey]

While I hate to throw parts at a problem I'd probably got ahead and replace the spring too. If you are feeling spicy I'd suggest a Volquartsen "Exact Edge" extractor too. They run about $25 and are better than the MIM OEM extractor.

[Sully]

Start with a thorough cleaning, to include using a chamber brush. Yes there is a chamber brush for shotguns, they can be found from a couple of sources like Brownells and MidwayUSA. This will eliminate it is not related to fouling in the chamber.

Next I would check to make sure the action bar assembly (Know as the forend assembly) is firmly still attached and hasn't come loose where it is either loose or misaligned. The action bar assembly is the forend (front stock), the railed forend, and it is held into place by a spanner nut (lock ring). The spanner nut on some guns will sometimes come loose, which allows the forend to get misaligned, which can cause cycling issue that range from fail to unlock, extraction, ejection, and fail to feed rounds out of the magazine tube, or multiple rounds feeding out of the magazine at the same time.

As you also suspect, the factory ejector system may be worn out, broken, or been damaged. It is riveted in at the factory, if you look in the ejection port, you will see the front ejector rivet is located about 3/8" back from the tip of the ejector, now go on the outside of the receiver and see if you can locate it, sometimes it is finished in the bluing or parkerizing so it is hard to see but it is there. The rear ejector rivet is located about 1.5" direction behind the front rivet on the same line, again sometimes these are hard to find in the finish of the receiver, but they are there, and will pop out of you drive them out from the inside of the receiver towards the outside with a punch.

If the ejector spring is bent, worn out or broken, if you can find a factory ejector spring then you can do a replacement of just the spring, which involves either a special drill bit to remove part of the front ejector rivet to do a one time replacement of the spring without having to refinish the rivet or receiver. If you had a new factory front ejector rivet and ejector spring, then you could replace both of these, and then grind the rivet flush and either reblue/parkerize the rivet or receiver.

If you need to do a full replacement of the ejector system, and you can find a factory front ejector rivet, rear ejector rivet, ejector and ejector spring, then you could do a full replacement. To do a full replacement with factory parts, Brownells offers 2 special punches for installing the rivets. If you cannot find factory replacement parts, then you may consider going aftermarket with our Sully Ejector system which is screwed in with no refinishing required.

CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123

[scrappydog1958]

I am very interested in the Sully Ejector system, but my receiver doesn't have tapped holes where the rivets are. How does this work please?

thanks,

Thomas

[Sully]

No threading of the rivet holes on the receiver is necessary to use our ejector system. When the factory ejector rivets are removed, you have two holes, which also have a recessed cup of sorts on the outside of the receiver where the factory rivets sit recessed into the receiver (Kind of like a nail head). To install the Sully Ejector system, you do not have to have the rivet holes thread. Our ejector is threaded, which our ejector screws thread into, tightening the screws down will tighten the ejector to the interior wall of the receiver.

If you look at the screw holes of our ejector, you will see that the screw holes are threaded.



CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123

[Vitaly]

Wow! I asked local gunsmiths about solution like this for years! Very clever idea!

[michaeljor]

While I hate to throw parts at a problem I'd probably got ahead and replace the spring too. If you are feeling spicy I'd suggest a Volquartsen "Exact Edge" extractor too. They run about $25 and are better than the MIM OEM extractor.

Have you replaced the spring yet. For $25 it should be fine if it works.

[alicent23]

I suggest replacing the worn-out ejector spring with a genuine Remington part or a high-quality aftermarket option.

[TacJack]

Sully has a novel solution to the ejector repair. However I'm stuck with the factory rivit replacement. Another option involving the use of a rivit drilling tool failed to leave enough of the rivit to peen over the spring.
Is there a specific direction for the rivit extraction and insertion?

[Sully]

TacJack,

the rivets on the factory ejector system are basically shaped like a nail, where the rivet has a head on it. The factory rivets are installed with the large head on the outside of the receiver, so on a right side ejection port gun, the ejector rivet heads will be larger on the left outside of the receiver where they were installed from, then the small end of the rivet protrudes through the inside of the receiver where they are smashed down to hold the factory ejector and/or ejector spring.

You state the you tried the hollow core drill bit method, which then did not leave you enough rivet to install a new spring. So in your case if you want to stay with the original factory rivet system, you will need to find a new factory front rivet to replace the front one that you don't have enough material left for the spring installation. Once you replace the front rivet with a new one, and install and tune a new factory spring, you will then need to grind the rivet flat to meet the level of the receiver for cosmetic purposes, then reblue or parkerize the receiver or rivet to make it look nice if that is your end goal.

CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123