We are just releasing a replacement ejector for the Remington 870, that I designed a couple of years ago when Remington bankrupted and all parts disappeared.
The factory 870 ejector is the most common broken and damaged part that we see on the 870 when teaching Armorer courses.
Damage to the spring happens when someone has the trigger group out, and lifts up on the back of the spring, causing it to get bent too high, and when the gun is reassembled and cycled the spring will bind, sometimes bend and lock the action up, or most often the spring will break off.
The tip of the ejector gets broken off, this is the most common thing we see. How it gets broken off, is someone has the barrel off, with the pump action (Action bar assembly) cycled to the rear, and tries to reinstall the barrel. When the pump action is to the rear, most times the barrel will be slighly out of alignment due to how the wide flared out back end of the barrel interacts with the foreand, being out of alignment about 1/4", and a person tries to squeeze the barrel into alignment, which causes the tip of the ejector to break off. A broken ejector tip will not support the barrel, so the barrel twist in the receiver while cycling the action, and the action locks up going forward or rearward.
So with many of the factory 870 parts being hard to find since 2020, the ejector system being a must have part that became unavailable. So I set out to make the part, and found I could improve upon the original design. I figured out how to screw it in, which makes it stronger in design, and much easier to replace.
The Sully 870 Ejector system (patent pending) is designed to be installed using 2 screws. The screw design allows for much easier installation, with no special tools required.
Simply align the Sully Ejector and Spring, and screw it into place with a few drops of thread locker on the screws.
The Sully 870 Ejector system is designed so the spring is tucked under the ejector against the receiver. The ejector is thicker on the front end, which gives greater strength to support the barrel.
This design also makes the ejector spring stronger, and eliminates the ejector spring being as easily damaged or torn loose from a rivet.
The screw design eliminates the need of having to refinish the receiver. There is no having to grind rivets flush and refinish and re-blue or parkerize the receiver.
Here is a comparison pic, ours on the top and the factory is on the bottom
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123
Sully 870 Ejector System
- Wolf Spring
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Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
This is great news!. I need one. When will they become available for sale and where to purchase them.. How does it perform. Thank you!. -Ronnie
Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
Manufacturer's web site: https://www.weaponsarmorer.com/
$89.95.
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$89.95.
Currently links are disabled on the forum so you'll need to cut & paste.
- Wolf Spring
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Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
Hey ,just one more question. Would I need to purchase 2 of the ejectors or just the one? Thanks again. -Ronnie
Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
They are packaged and sold as single individual units. So you get only one per package. We have plenty in stock, and are continually machining these, so if we do run out at some point there is more in the pipe line. We do have a few other parts and accessory upgrades that we are developing at the moment.
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123
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Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
How does the screw-in design of the Sully 870 Ejector system improve durability and ease of installation compared to the original riveted ejector system on the Remington 870?
Re: Sully 870 Ejector System
For those that have ever riveted in a factory ejector, it requires a couple of special punches that are rectangular in shape that fit in the track or channel of the ejector to aid in peening the rivets to hold both the ejector, and ejector spring. To install a factory ejector with new factory ejector parts, the old damaged or broken ejector needs to be removed. Then you put the new rivets in the rivet holes of the receiver from the outside facing inward. Brace the rivets on the outside of the receiver on a hard object like a steel plate or anvil. Then you have to strike the punches with a hammer, to smash the rivets down until there is no play in the ejector. With the new ejector installed, you need to fit the factory spring, then place the factory spring in the milled track of the ejector, with the hole in the factory over the front pivot pin spring hole. Now smash the front rivet down until the front rivet is mushroomed enough to retain the factory ejector spring so it is tight with no loosenes or free play on the rivet. Then you tune the spring for height if necessary. With the new factory ejector system riveted in and working, for cosmetic purposes you now grind the outside of the receiver rivet heads that are protruding out from the receiver. Once you grind the rivets so they are flush with the receiver, than you either blue or parkerize the rivets.elenagilbert wrote: ↑Wed Oct 09, 2024 1:46 am How does the screw-in design of the Sully 870 Ejector system improve durability and ease of installation compared to the original riveted ejector system on the Remington 870?
The factory rivet design works, and has been used in the 870 since approximately 1950. When teaching Armorer courses we see lots of broken tips on the ejectors, and occasionally a broken ejector spring. How the tip of the ejector breaks off, is that someone has the action bar assembly cycled to the rear, with the barrel off. Then they try to reinstall the barrel, which may not line up to get it into the receiver where the barrel is widest. This misalignment happens due to the tolerances of the wide diameter of the back of the barrel where it goes into the receiver, and the tolerances on the topside of the forend, and when these parts don't line up the barrel is slightly out of alignment to get it installed back into the receiver and held down by the magazine tube cap. When these parts are slightly misaligned, generally us Men that are Type-A meat eaters and knuckle draggers will try and squeeze the barrel to get it aligned onto the magazine tube, and this torque of trying to force it to line up will cause the factory ejector tip to often break off at the rivet hole. When this tip of the ejector is broken off, you will need to do a complete ejector replacement, as the ejector is responsible for not only ejector the empty shell but also supporting the barrel so it doesn't rotate and lock up the action.
The factory rivets spring can also get bent and this may result in the action getting stuck, and this in turn will cause the ejector spring to get broken off. This requires either a spring replacement or complete ejector replacement. To replace the spring on a factory riveted one, you either need to remove the front rivet and replace the front rivet with a new one, going through peening it and then spring installation. You can also do a gunsmith type repair using a special hollow core drill bit to remove the mushroom of the front ejector rivet material, but still leave the core of the rivet to do a one time spring replacement without having to replace the front rivet.
As for our Sully 870 Ejector System. It requires no special tools for installation, we include a 2mm hex wrench. Our design where we tuck the spring through a pocket/window further back, allows for a lot more mass of metal on the front end of the ejector, and this also protects the spring so it is not being torn loose from the rivet. Plus the screw design makes it easier to install the ejector and spring to get it tightened to the receiver by tightening the screws, versus trying to peen rivets down to get it tight. The factor rivets are soft so you can smash them down to get things install, as compared to the screws which are harder than rivets and this also provides more strength. The screws do not required the installer to grind things down or refinish the screws or receiver with bluing or parkerizing.
This comparison photo showing ours on top, and factory on the bottom, allows you to see that ours has more metal up front, and our spring is stronger as compared to the rivet design which can be easily torn from the rivet.
CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
WeaponsArmorer
SLR15 Rifles
Defensive Edge Training
(763) 712-0123