Recommend me a 870 Model

[Hunters21w]

Here she is!



I can start ordering accessories now

Any words of advice? First will be Magpul stock, forend, and sling, mesa shell holder, and Wilson combat jumbo safety. Idk what else. Should I replace the extractor and follower spring? Let me know, thanks.

[Synchronizor]

Don't get ahead of yourself. First take it down and inspect everything. Then clean it, lube it, and take it out shooting to see how it feels, and if it has any issues. If it didn't come with an owner's manual, you can download it in PDF form here.

Go ahead on the Magpul furniture and sling, since you've already decided on that, but I'd wait on the safety. Once you have the new stock on, try the gun out and see how the factory safety feels. An oversized safety isn't necessarily better than the factory one, it depends on the user.

As for internals like springs and the extractor, there's no need to replace them unless they're broken, or worn enough that they're causing malfunctions. Again, inspect and function-test the gun, then take it shooting and see if there are any problems before you start ordering replacement parts.

[Hunters21w]

Yea you're right, I'm going to print off that owners manual since I don't have one. I also don't know how to take apart and inspect everything. It's probably in the manual though. Have any nice tutorial vids on disassembly?

I will hopefully shoot either this weekend or Monday.

[Synchronizor]

I also don't know how to take apart and inspect everything. It's probably in the manual though. Have any nice tutorial vids on disassembly?

I haven't yet made a disassembly video, though I'll probably end up doing one at some point, since I get so many requests for it (normally I don't bother making videos on topics that a lot of other people have already covered). The manual gives step-by-step instructions for basic disassembly. It's not terribly complicated.

For inspection, look everything over for signs of damage or abnormal wear. A certain amount of wear (light scratches, spots with the finish rubbed off, etc.) is to be expected on a used gun, but watch for excessive rust, deformation, or cracks.

When you take the trigger plate assembly out of the gun, look it over for signs of extreme wear, rust, or missing parts. Make sure the hammer and sear lock up securely, and that the connectors move with the slide release. Look over the striking face of the hammer; it will probably show some deformation, but should still be more-or-less flat, and the same width as the rest of the part. Press down on the cocked hammer and the carrier dog, work the slide release and safety button, and flip the carrier up and down. If any of these feel especially soft and loose, or don't actuate crisply or spring back smartly when released, it could indicate worn-out springs that need to be replaced.

In the breech bolt, check the extractor spring and firing pin retractor spring the same way, and inspect the firing pin, extractor, and locking block for excessive wear or restricted movement.

Check the barrel for bends or bulges, and use a flashlight to inspect the bore for rust or pitting (clean it first). Make sure the barrel extension fits properly into the receiver without gaps or alignment issues, and make sure the locking notch inside the top of the barrel extension is free of debris and in good condition. Check the barrel guide ring to make sure the magazine cap detent is still installed.

Check the shell latches to make sure they actuate properly, and aren't worn-down or loose. Make sure the magazine spring has enough tension, and that the follower moves freely through the magazine tube and extension. Look for cracking or fatigue in the ejector and ejector spring. Look for dents, burrs, and stripped threads on the magazine tube, extension tube, and coupling nut.

Inspect the fore-end and stock wood for large cracks, splits, swelling, or looseness. Make sure the fore-end tube nut is tightened down, and the action bars on the fore-end tube assembly are straight, aligned, and intact (don't worry about finish wear on the action bars, that's usually the first place it rubs off).

If you're not sure what parts I'm talking about, refer to the owner's manual, they're all listed and illustrated there.

It also occurs to me that that this gun may be old enough to have the early-style action, without the flex-tab updates Remington implemented in the 1980s that prevent certain types of jams. Here's a video with some details.

[Hunters21w]

Thanks for the very detailed response! I will watch some vids and check everything out.

Also I looked up the serial number on the remington website and it says it was manufactured in 1997. So it's not as old as I thought lol.

I will take some good pics when I take it apart.

[Synchronizor]

Also I looked up the serial number on the remington website and it says it was manufactured in 1997. So it's not as old as I thought lol.

That gun looks older than 1997 (as far as I can tell). What website did you use to look up the serial number? I wasn't aware Remington had an official site like that set up.

[Hunters21w]

I thought it was from the Remington site but its actually from this site lol.

http://www.rem870.com/remington-serial-number-lookup/

On the barrel it says LR from what I can tell, it's kind've scratched up. Maybe I can call Remington and give them the whole serial number to look up the manufacture date?

Didn't think about it till now, but the barrel could've been swapped resulting in a newer date. The full serial number is probably the only accurate way to date it.

[Synchronizor]

Yeah, if you want to be sure, call or email Remington with the serial number on the gun's receiver, and they'll be able to tell you when the gun itself was manufactured.

The barrel may or may not be original, but it's worth noting that Remington's barrel date stamp system loops every 20-30 years for most letters. An "R" in the year's place could mean 1997 or 1968 (also 1924, but the 870 isn't old enough for that). Does your gun's serial number start with the letter "S" by any chance?

[Hunters21w]

Yea I will call them just out of curiosity. It actually starts with 120 on the receiver.

Also will an XS Big Dot fit over this style bead dot?

[Synchronizor]

I thought it might. According to what I've read, 1968 was the year Remington started using letter prefixes on the serial number to indicate a date range. Some 1968 guns have no prefix, some don't even have serial numbers (since they weren't required until the Gun Control Act of 1968 went into effect), and others start with an "S" prefix.

Kind of a complicated year for 870 serial numbers.